- The History
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- The origins of the pilgrimage
to Compostela along the Northern route, which enters Galicia from Asturias,
date back to the times immediately after the discovery of the Apostle St.
James’s tomb, in the 9th century. The Asturian and Galician routes were
the first to direct pilgrims towards Santiago. This route was as busy as the
other older Compostelan routes, even before the Spanish monarchs promoted
the French Route as the finest one, in the 11th and 12th centuries. This
promotion did not lead to the decline of the Asturian and Galician pilgrimae
routes.
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- In general, pilgrims arrived
by land from France, or by sea from northern European countries, landing at
the Basque, Cantabrian and Galician ports. They then walked to San Salvador
in Oviedo and towards obtaining grace in Compostela.
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- There were several ways to
enter Galicia. One way would be to cross by boat from Castropol to Ribadeo,
which received other pilgrims by sea and had its own hospital, or to go
along the edge of the river Eo, which was crossed by several bridges,
including the one in Santiago de Abres. These crossings created
different routes towards Vilanova de Lourenzá, Mondoñedo y Lugo.
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- HOSPITALITY AND PILGRIMAGE
on the Northern Route
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- In the neighbourhood of A
Ponte, in Ribadeo, by the Chapel of A Nosa Señora das Virtudes, stood the
first Galician hospital on the route. It was called Hospital de A Nosa Señora
da Ponte, and was founded in 1543 to attend to pilgrims arriving from the
Kingdom of León and the Principality of Asturias. This was how the Northern
Route began: a unique experience of hospitality and a sensitive combination
of Christian charity and philanthropic aid.
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- At the Monastery of Vilanova
de Lourenzá, pilgrims were well-attended by the Benedictines, who were
pioneers in this type of care. Chapter LIII of the Rules of the Order
summarize the feeling perfectly: “that all guests who arrive at the
monastery should be greeted as if they were Christ himself”. The Count Don
Osorio Gutiérrez, founder of the monastery, dedicated part of his will to
the provision of beds to accommodate the poor and pilgrims. This was in 969,
which goes to show how busy the Northern Route already was at the middle of
the10th century.
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- In Mondoñedo, there are
documents dating from 1602 that describe the San Pablo Hospital for pilgrims
on their way to Compostela. That same year, Bishop González de Samaniego
told the Pope about it, stating that it was well-supplied and that many
Galician and foreign pilgrims stayed there. The other large monastic centre
on the route is Sobrado dos Monxes. After it was re-founded and joined the
Cistercians in 1142, it became one of the most important monasteries in
Galicia and one of the most well-known to pilgrims, causing some even to
make detours off other routes.
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- Of all the Compostelan
pilgrims who travelled to Santiago along the Northern Route over the
centuries, one of the most important was Saint Francis of Assisi. According
to tradition, he made a pilgrimage to San Salvador in Oviedo and Santiago de
Compostela in 1214. At the end of the 15th century, the Armenian Bishop
Martyr of Azerdjan, who, in the tale of his pilgrimage defined the meaning
of the Portal of Glory, or Pórtico de la Gloria better than anyone else,
travelled from Rome to Santiago. Both on the way there and on the way back
he chose the Northern Route, passing through the Basque Country,
Cantabria and Asturias. There are two 16th-century tales of pilgrims who
followed this route: Antonio Lalaing, lord of Montigny (1502) and the
Italian, Bartolomeo Fontana (1539).
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- During the Baroque period,
also, some pilgrims wrote about their experiences: Jacob Sobieski (1611),
father of King John III of Poland, made the pilgrimage along the French
Route as far as León, then took a detour in Oviedo and headed for the
coastal road to Ribadeo, continuing to Santiago along the Northern Route.
The Italian Sebastian Gatti arrived in Ribadeo by sea in 1698 and continued
on foot to Santiago. The Frenchman Guillaume Manier and his pilgrimage
companions chose the Northern Route in 1726 to return overseas. Finally, his
compatriot Jean-Pierre Racq (1790), left a detailed description of his
pilgrimage to San Salvador in Oviedo and to Santiago de Compostela along the
Northern Route.
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