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Today the
Camino changed completely. After having spent 28 days of "loneliness" on the
Camino del Norte we found herds of pilgrims leaving Arzúa. So much noise!
Sitting at the coffee bar (or the pilgrims’ bar as we named it) this morning I
started to feel the stress of the Camino with all the noisy pilgrims that were
leaving the city... It didn't please me at all after so many days of
quietness. For 28 days I've been "alone" or with only very few pilgrims, and
now I was going to be part of the herd... on the Camino “freeway” - not really
what I wanted when I started this journey. We slowly left Arzúa.... but soon
we were both "running".
We both kept a
good speed and talked a lot... actually this was the first day we talked a lot
while walking. We had always walked in quietness and saved the talking
for our “stops”. Maybe we both knew that this would be our last day on the
Camino, and all the energy inside had to come out somehow. We passed the herds
and stopped for coffee after 8 kilometres. I remember this bar…I sat here last
year with Fiona. I chose to sit under the same tree - just for memories’
sake… Soon after it started to rain, again! The tree was now my shelter. We
had our coffee and a snack - waited a bit for the rain to stop. Paul arrived
and he looked happy. Pilgrims were coming in groups... noisy and also looking
very happy.
Our plan for
today was to stop in Pedrouzo and meet Paul outside at 7 p.m. But at this
speed I felt we would never stop, which actually worked for me. I wanted to
continue... I had the feeling that Bernhard wanted to continue as well, but we
never talked about it. It was a silent agreement. We had a small lunch break
just before Santa Irene... and still the talk about going to Santiago today
never came up, as we had agreed with Paul to meet him tonight outside the
albergue in Pedrouzo. If Bernhard wanted to stop, I would stop too. I really
wanted to walk into Santiago this year with a good friend like him.
Leaving the
restaurant we saw a milestone saying 20 km to Santiago. One look at
each other and it was decided… we would continue... all the way to the end.
Santiago. With only one "but" - if we got tired, we would stop in Monte de
Gozo. The walk into Santiago should be so full of joy. I felt this "huge
magnet" pulling me towards Santiago, it was like someone had tied a string
around my waist and kept pulling and pulling... inside my head I heard the
voices... come on.... come on... you can do it... and my lips whispered...
I know…I know… I am already on my way. I just couldn't stop smiling. The pain
in my leg was really bad today - but I chose not to care... Tomorrow I can
relax. Today pain would be pain - nothing could stop me now.
We had
another break just 10 km before Santiago... We had two large beers...each...
and they really got to me, I felt a bit drunk and very happy. My cell phone
made a noise... a text message was coming in.... it was from Carluccia. "Ciao
Annette - Where are you? Baci tanti baci! Fafel" - I needed the Spanish guys
at the next table to translate... my Italian isn't that good.... they said
it is something about kisses.. I really miss her. I sent her a message
telling her where I was... I must remember to get her a wooden Tau in
Santiago. On our way again singing, and I was dancing... it was not just the
beers, I am already crazy enough to act "silly", and I think I made a few
people smile... We were walking very fast... maybe running is a better term
for what we were doing... I just wanted to get to Santiago.
Next stop...
Monte de Gozo! Coffee and a bocadilla/cheese. The little toe on my left foot
suddenly started to be a big pain, and the pulled muscle in my right
leg was already painful enough... I had no more pain killers. The "toe pain"
was not a blister... it was my nail... I think it might come off. Was this a
sign from above telling me to stop? Now?? No way... I will not stop...
pain or no pain... if I have to crawl… I will crawl, but I will not stop
now... Monte de Gozo is not a place where I would even consider spending
the night!! I complained loudly about my pain... not that anyone could do
anything... just to let it all out...
Only 4 km
left... I remembered the voices... "you can do it.... come on". We got up
and started the walk into Santiago... I felt I could hardly walk, very
painful. I started to sing... just to keep my mind off the pain... and we both
started to speed up.... or run! When walking into Santiago I was actually
surprised how little I remember from last year... only a few places and
buildings seemed familiar to me. Finally at the fountain... turn right...
straight ahead... and under the tunnel, and we were on the plaza in front of
the Cathedral... YES....YES!! We are here... finally... I gave
Bernhard a big hug. You are here, chico.... Congratulations!! We spent a
few minutes taking in the whole picture... the journey was physically behind
us... but will always be in our minds... in my heart. I remember coming into
Santiago last year, I was crying and laughing at the same time... this year
my feelings were different... why was that?? Was it because I didn't have to
say so many goodbyes...? I hate goodbyes... I take people into my heart...
get them under my skin... and.... well, I know it is not goodbye for ever,
but to me it is still difficult! - Bernhard said to me (smiling) that he
couldn't believe I felt pain in my leg and now in my toe... as I was running
very fast. He said he was trying to get ahead of me a few times, but I
"wouldn't let" him... haha....
We found the
pilgrim’s office... with no line... we went straight to the counter... I
handed her my pilgrim’s credential... and answered the questions she asked
me... For which reasons did you walk this Camino? she asked... I had no
idea! She said religious? I said yes, not knowing if this was really the
truth, as you can be religious in so many ways... When she wrote my
Compostellana I paid close attention to the pen in her hand... Inside my head
I was praying... please write my name in Latin... please...! Annam....
Annam is my name in Latin, and it is also the name written on my Compostellana.
Thank you so much! Last year I was silently begging that they would please
write my name just as it is... no Latin, as I did the walking and not
some other person with a Latin name... and this year... this year I wanted my
name in Latin and I got it. Yes!
Leaving the
pilgrim’s office there was to my big surprise suddenly a long... very long
line of happy pilgrims... Outside the office we were attacked by a lady, who
wanted to rent out a room... we went with her to look at the room... a really
nice one - with two big beds and big windows which gave a lot of light, and in
the city centre - 2 pilgrims… 3 nights… € 70 total . We dumped the backpacks
and went to celebrate... tapas... wine... I was still feeling the beers... I
think I might need a nap? While celebrating Bernhard received a text message
from Paul... where are you guys? We will see him tomorrow.
We went back
to the room. Showered... went out for dinner... and saw the spectacular
illumination show around the Cathedral... part of a poem by Rosalia de Castro
was "written" on the wall... along with all the Camino symbols. Very
beautiful.
Este
prácido sol que nos aluma,
estes aires do mar,
este tempo soave, estas campías
que non teñen igual;
esta fala mimosa que nós temos,
de tan doce solás
que non sabe decir si non cariños
que hastra os corazós van;
esta terra, n'hai duda Dios a fixo
pra ser amada e amar.
- I didn’t
understand the lyrics, as it is written in Spanish, or maybe it is Galician,
and yet it talks to me... it goes straight to my heart. We went back to the
room and went to bed. Tomorrow we can sleep late, wonderful. We will be
reunited with Paul, and we can do whatever we like... most of all relax, and
maybe the pain in my leg will slowly disappear. Good night.
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