CAMINO de SANTIAGO

 

Tuesday,  August 31 - 2004

Day 19 - Soto de Luiña - Almuña (Luarces)
 
Woke up "late" this morning, my body was hurting, but my feet seemed OK. I was still very tired. The backpack seemed to weigh twice as much today. Felt soooo heavy. We (José, Arnau and I) went for breakfast at the hotel across the street. Good breakfast – eat-all-you-can buffet. While eating I felt like NOT walking today... - My body was screaming for rest...  Yesterday was really hard... but I can only blame myself...  I could have stopped several times... but whenever my mind is set upon something... I just go for it... and sometimes that is a good thing... but on this trip I really need to listen to my inner voice... Will I ever learn or do I have to be taught the hard way....? 

I didn't know what to do.... should I stay or should I walk with the boys? .... Or should I take the bus and spare my body today. I could probably stay another night at the albergue...  but first... this village is not exactly exciting...  and secondly I'm afraid I will not make it to Santiago in time...   The road today will be on asphalt all the way to Almuña... it will be hard on the feet and legs.  30 km.  - Should I stay or should I go...? A question that kept popping up in my head.... If I started walking, there would be no chance of taking the bus...  and would I regret it if I didn't... I don't know why this is such a hard decision...

I ended with the decision... take the bus...! Promised myself that I would listen to my body...  I had already been ill and have just got rid of the temperature...  I didn't want to press my body into another week of a temperature and illness.  This is my journey... and I want it to be a wonderful memory...  

....Hmm... I really was trying to listen today...  I looked up into the sky and shouted...  “What are you trying to tell me??”    …No busses to Almuña today...  only towards Gijón and I've already been there...   So....   I went to the railway station...  the only train today had already left...!!   .... and just to make everything perfect... I was not allowed to stay another day at the albergue....    OK....!!  - I started walking, my body was not happy about it... I kept thinking what am I doing here...  am I not supposed to enjoy this? And then I had to remind myself that I can only blame myself for yesterday... and yesterday is the reason I'm so tired today... Is there lesson in this? - I'm not sure that we are supposed to learn something every time we meet a little hardship...  but..... ?? 

I was alone... The chicos had left hours ago...  and I would not be able to catch up... also this would be my chance of walking by myself at my own pace...   I hailed a taxi.... I paid him to take me as far as he could for € 10....  which would be a little more than halfway...  we passed the boys... which would mean I got a "head start"....  I was left by the roadside... a little village was very close..  I "flipped" a coin...  go check for coffee or continue....  Coffee.. !  - It turned out coffee was not available in this tiny village... even the church was firmly closed and locked...  - I have discovered that on this Camino all the churches are locked and bolted...  I wonder why...   Are they afraid that people will rob the church...?  I remember that all the churches on the Camino Frances were wide open all day....  (Except for the Cathedral in Burgos).

I left the village....  and found shortly after that I was not alone... I had got a new friend...   a dog...!!  He walked 5-6 m behind me... When I stopped to look for him... he barked at me (??) - When I tried to call him... to come closer... he would stop...  looking at me as if he was frightened by something...  I tried to send him back...  and he would just bark at me again...  I continued on the road...  he was walking behind me...   Cars were honking their horn as if to say... “Don't bring a dog on this road...!!”  - And I found it strange that the dog was not afraid of the cars...  - well maybe he was...??  I didn't feel safe and I can imagine that he didn't either...   Every time I stopped, he stopped....  Was he my guardian angel for today?? This was my first day walking alone... and yet I was not alone...  Where did he come from, who had sent him...  whom did he belong to...   - As I walked into Almuña I turned round... to look for the dog...  - and he disappeared....  Why did he follow me all this way...?  How? Why? Who?  Questions I will never have an answer to ...

I got to the albergue..., tired - although I had covered 12-15 km by taxi... - The hospitalera was very kind...  and received me with a warm smile... I went to bed to have a rest...  I guess I fell asleep the second my head hit the pillow...  - I woke up when the chicos arrived...  they seemed happy and tired...  - The hospitalera asked them a question in Spanish...  the boys smiled and said... si!  - (??)   I asked them what she had said...   José said "she asked if you were still asleep when we arrived"....  Still??   - “She has been checking on you a few times”...  (She is so sweet). We went out for a very late dinner...  it was not possible to get anything to eat before 9:30 p.m. ...  Strange...!!

... Where tomorrow will take me I do not know... the next pilgrim’s albergue is only 14 km away...  and the next one after that another 14 km. It all depends on how my body feels...   As I went to bed, I felt a calmness...  there is a wonderful peace here...  a wonderful energy...  you can almost feel that your batteries are being "recharged" with new power...

La Caridad - day 20 >>>

<<<
<<< Index